You have spent hours (perhaps days) piecing together your latest jigsaw, and now that final piece is in place it feels almost a shame to break it up. The good news is that you do not have to. Framing a completed puzzle turns it into a piece of wall art you can enjoy for years, and it is far easier than most people expect. In this step-by-step guide we will walk you through how to frame a jigsaw puzzle at home, from measuring it accurately to choosing the best frame for a completed puzzle.
Step 1: Measure your completed puzzle
Before you buy anything, measure your finished puzzle carefully. This is the single most important step, because puzzle dimensions vary between brands even when the piece count is the same. As a rough guide to common UK sizes, a 1000-piece puzzle is usually around 48 x 68cm (roughly 19 x 27in), while 500-piece puzzles are noticeably smaller, and larger 1500- or 2000-piece puzzles will need considerably more wall space.
Lay a tape measure across the width and height and jot the numbers down. Because our frames come in fixed dimensions, the aim is to find the nearest standard frame size. If your puzzle falls between two sizes, choose the next size up and add a mount to fill the gap neatly (more on that below). Our size guide makes it easy to compare measurements before you order.
Step 2: Flatten and preserve the puzzle
A loose puzzle will shift and buckle the moment you lift it, so you need to bond the pieces together first. There are two popular methods:
- Puzzle glue or conserver: Brush a thin, even coat of puzzle glue over the front of the assembled jigsaw. Let it dry completely, then apply a second coat if the manufacturer recommends it. The glue seeps between the pieces and locks them into one solid sheet.
- Peel-and-stick sheets: These self-adhesive backing sheets are applied to the reverse of the puzzle. They are less messy than liquid glue and are ideal if you would rather not add a shiny finish to the front.
Whichever you choose, work on a flat, protected surface and allow plenty of drying time before moving on.
Step 3: Mount the puzzle on backing board
Once your puzzle is one solid piece, mount it onto a firm backing board such as foam board or thick mount card. This keeps it perfectly flat inside the frame and stops it sagging over time. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the board, carefully lower the puzzle into position, and smooth it down from the centre outwards to push out any air bubbles. Trim the board to match your puzzle if needed.
Step 4: Choose a frame with enough depth (or a flat frame)
A glued puzzle mounted on foam board has a little thickness to it, so pick a frame that can accommodate it. A frame with a reasonable rebate depth will happily hold the puzzle, backing board and glazing together. Alternatively, a slim, flat-profile frame works well if your puzzle is thin and you have used a peel-and-stick backing rather than bulky board. Browse our full range of frames to find a style and depth that suits your finished piece, or explore the timeless designs in our classic range for a more traditional look.
Step 5: Decide whether to use a mount
A mount (the card border that sits between the puzzle and the frame) is optional, but it can make a real difference. If you have gone up to the next frame size, a mount neatly bridges the gap so your puzzle sits centred and looks intentional rather than lost inside the frame. A mount also lifts the glazing slightly away from the surface, giving your puzzle room to breathe. Our frames with a mount take the guesswork out of this and arrive ready to use.
Step 6: Choose plexiglass over glass for large puzzles
For big puzzles, we recommend a shatter-resistant plexiglass (acrylic) front rather than glass. It is significantly lighter, which matters a great deal once you add the weight of a large 1000- or 2000-piece puzzle, and it is far safer because it will not shatter if the frame is knocked or dropped. For a small puzzle in a nursery or a child's room, plexiglass is the sensible choice too.
Step 7: Hang your framed puzzle securely
A framed puzzle is heavier than a standard print, so hang it with care. Use fixings rated for the weight, and for larger frames fix into a wall stud or use proper wall plugs rather than a single small picture hook. Two fixing points spread the load and keep the frame hanging level. Always check that your wall can take the weight before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Do I have to glue my puzzle before framing it?
Not always, but it is strongly recommended. Without glue or an adhesive backing sheet the pieces can shift and separate when you move the frame. Gluing turns the puzzle into one solid sheet that is easy to mount and hang.
What jigsaw frame size do I need for a 1000-piece puzzle?
Most 1000-piece puzzles measure around 48 x 68cm, but always measure yours first as brands differ. Pick the nearest standard frame size, or go one size up and add a mount to fill the space.
Can I frame a puzzle without a mount?
Yes. If your frame matches the puzzle size closely, you can frame it with no mount at all. A mount is most useful when you have chosen a larger frame and want to centre the puzzle neatly.
Is glass or plexiglass better for a completed puzzle?
For anything but the smallest puzzles, plexiglass wins. It is lighter and shatter-resistant, making it safer and easier to hang than heavy glass.
Ready to frame your puzzle?
Measure your finished jigsaw, pick the nearest standard size, and you are ready to turn all that hard work into a display piece. Every order comes with free UK delivery and a 30-day returns policy, so you can shop with confidence. Explore our complete range of ready-made frames and give your puzzle the finish it deserves.